Short work

Of a West Indies New Year's Eve dinner: kingfish, rice, plantains, beans.

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The Tobago Cays

The Tobago Cays

In my opinion, it are one of the most beautiful places in the world. Mom and Dad share my opinion, and I hope Rigel does as well. The anchorage is protected by a huge, horseshoe shaped reef to the north, east, ad west, and a number of small islands and patches of reef to the south. I simply love it. The water is crystal clear, there is an abundance of fish and plant life, the reef makes excellent snorkeling, and to top it all off, the whole thing is a marine park with an area inhabited by a group of sea turtles. I saw a sea turtle near the boat while swimming, but it seemed to be ignoring me and everybody else. When we snorkeled on the reef, there were tons of small fish of brilliant colors swimming all over the coral. Apparently there is less coral then last time Dad was here. He says that there were several hurricanes tat damaged the reef and killed a lot of the delicate coral. It is still extremely beautiful, and it leaves me with no doubt as to why the Caribbean is famous as a wonderful place.
--Orion Date
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Sunrise over Palm Island

The last one of 2010.
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Snorkeling the maze

In the Tobago Cays, there is a large reef protecting the anchorage we are in. We took the dinghy to the reef, and wow, it was so amazing. It was no more than six feet deep, and in some cases, four. And the whole thing was a huge maze on brain coral, fan coral, and we also saw some conch. If it hadn't been a national park, we would have had taken one. But I guess that is why there is so much of it.

-- By Rigel
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A ratlines view

Of our Union Island anchorage.
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The #@*% Inverter

I've just about had it with that stupid thing. It is now fixed, well actually replaced, but I personally never want to have to mess with it again. It took us all morning to get the original one out and to make sure it wasn't working, then a further hour to get the new one hooked up to the cables. I did like putting new ring terminals on the cables though. This was because I got to us the hammer on them. The only crimping devace big enough for the huge wires used was operated using a hammer. So that's how I vented my frustration. All in all, I am extremely glad we got that done, because we can't charge anything electronic on this boat without the inverter.
--Orion Date
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Trying to diagnose

Our old inverter's fatal illness.

In hopes we can prevent our new inverter from succumbing to it, or face the permanent end to our use of our gizmos.

"Hey, Orion! We can remove the circuit board!"
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Back to the Tobago Cays

After 16 years.
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Mommy comes in the easy way

Nothing goes to windward like a 747 . . . or even a puddle-jumper turboprop. Thank you St. Vincent Grenada Air.
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Sunrise on Bequia

After a squally night's passage.

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The Distillery

Today we went to the Mount Gay rum visitor's center, where we learned how they make rum. They start by making molassus out of sugar canes and fermenting it. Then they distill they alchohol out of it, and age the resulting alchohol and water mixture in wooden barrels. The taste of the rum comes from the casks, which are apparently used to make bourbon, and lightly baked before use. The different types of rum apparently come from variations in ageing time or mixture. I had a good time there, and now know a lot more about the making of rum.
--Orion Date
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At the Mount Gay distillery tour

The lads are somewhat less excited about this than Daddy.
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Long passage which didn't have many dolphins, but nice enough.

We had made an excellent exit from the anchorage Faja de Aqua in a huge swell and started our passage. This was to be the last, and longest ocean crossing. Anyway, the passage started out normally, not too bad, until, we saw dolphins. And for those who don't know, dolphins in big waves are a treat. They usually leap off the crest of the wave, then do a belly flop in the trough of the next. If you're lucky. We weren't. Though of of them slapped its tail in the water once. It was also the first time that we caught them on video. We also saw whales at one point. The croused close to the side of the boat, almost affectionately. It was a very nice passage.

5/2 3 6 - 9/1 9 7/2 5/1 - 5 9 9_

See if you can decode that.

--By Rigel
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Transatlantic Passage

Transatlantic Passage

This one was the longest passage yet this trip. 17.5 days, longer even than the Bermuda-Azores leg, that took 16 days. It was not the easy, smooth, never-touch-a-sail passage I expected. One day into the trip, the wind did and we had to motor until it came back. So much for consistent 10-15 knots. Then a couple days later, we caught our first fish, but we lost it trying to get it aboard. The wind picked up after a couple more days, and then we had some rough seas. The wind wasn't as steady as expected either, wavering over twenty to thirty degrees. So much for always the same direction. We got too far south going straight downwind, so we had to alter course northwards, which led to assisting the Monitor and getting water over the sides. So much for smooth and dry. We caught another fish, a mahi-mahi, and managed to get it aboard and have it for dinner. It was delicious, and the wind died down a little too. A few days afterwards the waves were still on the quarter (to port or starboard of the stern, but aft of the side), and we caught another fish, this one a tuna. When we tasted the meat we confirmed our guess that it was yellow fin tuna, and absolutely delicious. We had it in steaks marinated and lightly fried over a bed of rice, a perfect meal. Everything became kind of plain and unremarkable after that, until day eighteen, when I woke up to find Barbados on the starboard bow.





P.S. Dad wanted me to put in a remark about our watermaker, and here it is. On Dad's last trip he had to carefully monitor his water tanks and put tight restrictions on water uses, because he didn't have a watermaker. On this trip we had no additional restrictions besides our normal rules, and we dropped anchor with full tanks.
--Orion Date
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Searching for Cheapside Market in Bridgetown

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Lord Horatio Nelson

Hero of Jack Aubrey in the Master and Commander series, and therefore a hero of Orion, as well, here in Bridgetown.
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Aha! Found it!

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But first a sip of coconut water

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Our tugboat mooring pal

During our visit to customs, immigration and health. The Pelican II.
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It's Barbados! It really is!

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Sheeting in

The big 150 as we prepare for arrival in Bridgetown, Barbados after 18 days at sea.
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Hmmm . . . Maybe we won't be going in for bread this morning after all

Insofar as 3-meter breakers are crashing onto the slipway. And the locals are filling sandbags for the seawall.

Perhaps it's time to head to Barbados.
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Pickup truck ride for the very first time ever in my life.

Up till today, I've never ridden on the back of a pickup truck. You see, the taxis that you can get on the island of Brava are-well-"taxi" is kind of an misnomer. They are all pickup trucks. As much as it is unsafe, you don't get carsick because there's so much apparent wind. And you are jostled around so much. I had to hold onto a beam. I hope that I don't have to do it again.
--By Rigel
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A Crazy Dinghy Adventure

A Crazy Dinghy Adventure

Today we moved from our former anchorage to this other one, and it actually has a town. The only problem preventing us from going ashore and getting groceries and exploring was the swell. It is big enough in this anchorage to prevent an easy landing, so we had to time our rush for the ramp by the swell. We made a total fiasco out of it. We completely mistimed the swell and got hurled towards some rocks. We did hit hem,. But they didn't cause any serious damage to the dinghy. Then we scrambled out, grabbed the dinghy, and tried to pull it ashore. Then we got scattered by another breaking wave, got back to the dinghy, and managed to get it up onto the concrete ramp. After that it was only a matter of carrying the dinghy up to a safe spot, and getting a taxi up into town. When we got back, we were faced with a bigger swell, cold water, and the sun going down. Luckily we had the help of several of the inhabitants willing to help us. Unlike us, they knew how to time the swell, and helped us get back to the boat safely. It was one of the few situations this trip that really got the adrenaline pumping in me, and I sincerely hope that next time we will be more careful and successful.
--Orion Date
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Our anchorage at Faja de Agua

Looks peaceful from here, no? Look closely at the breakers. Look at how they've grown since we brought the dinghy ashore.

A dinghy launching experience we DON'T want to repeat.

Muito obrigado to our Cape Verdean friends who helped us get in and through the breakers, including one elder gent who has no doubt seen many, many days much rougher than this. Muito obrigado.
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Juno at anchor in Faja de Agua

Surging back and forth, back and forth, on waves from a storm a thousand miles away.
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How

Did we possibly land the dinghy on a concrete slipway in a 2-meter swell?

Don't ask. It wasn't pretty.
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Approaching Brava

The southwestern-most of the Cape Verde Islands. Getting positioned for the jump across.
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Sunday afternoon futbol

In Nova de Sintra.
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Latitude:14.87301
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GPS location Date/Time:11/28/2010 11:03:13 GMT

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Latitude:14.8321
Longitude:-24.73859
GPS location Date/Time:11/27/2010 15:52:26 GMT

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Latitude:15.76207
Longitude:-24.18839
GPS location Date/Time:11/26/2010 02:35:37 GMT

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Latitude:16.64773
Longitude:-23.08295
GPS location Date/Time:11/25/2010 11:50:18 GMT

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The exploding candle

On my birthday, I got a candle. And a whole lot of other stuff, mostly computer stuff, but the candle was rather interesting. For it was in the shape of a closed flower, and on the tips of the pedals, pointing inward, were tiny candles. There was no wick in the center on the flower. Well, when we got around to using it, we got a lighter, and lit all of the wicks. It looked like a torch for a while. Then, most of the petals opened up. We pushed open the two that didn't. Edee got her fingers out of the way when an afterburner-looking flame erupted out of the center of the now open flower. Some sparks came out, and it stopped. Right then, the box said that it was supposed to play music. I half expected a little play button to come out. None did.




--By Rigel
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Finding us a sandy spot...

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Latitude:16.6961
Longitude:-22.97177
GPS location Date/Time:11/23/2010 12:43:35 GMT

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Wheelbarrow Water

Wheelbarrow Water

All the water that they use here was once seawater. It was taken into a desalination plant and desalinated (had the salt removed). Our own water comes from a similar source, our reverse osmosis watermaker. I don't know if the desalination plant on shore is reverse osmosis, but it does turn seawater into fresh water. This island is currently experiencing a drought, and has been for some time. There is no running water, everyone has to go the public water supply and lug it home in wheelbarrows or something similar. I can't imagine what it must be like to have to carry all the water you use from the town supply to your house. I have a semi-similar view seeing as we are on a sailboat and have to conserve water in everything we do, from taking showers to washing dishes. We don't, however, have to carry it all several blocks. It helps to reflect the lifestyle of the people living here to watch them carrying these huge water containers in wheelbarrows.
--Orion Date
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Walking the streets of Espargos

The "big city" of Sal. Looking, naturally, for Cheerios and tri-color rotini.
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From La Palma to Sal

From La Palma to Sal

This was one of our rougher passages so far. It wasn't the roughest, that was our little jaunt to the Bahamas early last year. It was, however, moderately rough. At least for the middle part it was. During that time I was seriously sick. I haven't been seriously sick for quite a while. I guess it must have been the Sibari-Ithaca jump. I think I was a little seasick on the way to the Canaries, but that was just not eating. This was genuine seasickness. I hadn't felt that was for months, and I absolutely hated it. The first day was fine, pretty calm, and I managed to do schoolwork. Then it was rough for two days. After that it started to calm down, but I didn't totally recover until the next day. The port we are anchored in is called Palmeira, on the west coast of the island Sal, in the Cape Verde Islands. I don't know how long we are staying here, but it's really nice to finally be able to swim again.
--Orion Date
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Bathing on Juno

Bathing to you may seem very simple to you, but it means more than that to us. It involves jumping in the water, for one thing. Note that this is only when we are at anchor, otherwise the water is filthy. After you jump in, you get out, and shampoo all over yourself (you can only use baby shampoo with seawater). You jump back in, get out, and rinse off in something called a sun shower. It uses the sun to heat up fresh water. It's really cool.
--By Rigel
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Customs cleared, dousing the Q flag

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And goodbye Columbus

La Gomera, from whence the Admiral of the Ocean departed for India, September 1492.
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Latitude:18.62467
Longitude:-22.33728
GPS location Date/Time:11/18/2010 11:21:41 GMT

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Latitude:20.56504
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GPS location Date/Time:11/17/2010 11:18:18 GMT

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Latitude:22.7709
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GPS location Date/Time:11/16/2010 11:44:44 GMT

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Latitude:25.15867
Longitude:-19.11526
GPS location Date/Time:11/15/2010 11:11:27 GMT

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Latitude:25.96861
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GPS location Date/Time:11/15/2010 01:35:39 GMT

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Latitude:26.88146
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GPS location Date/Time:11/14/2010 11:30:09 GMT

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Latitude:27.67682
Longitude:-17.70676
GPS location Date/Time:11/14/2010 01:23:25 GMT

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Saying bye to Las Islas Canarias

Including El Tiede, the tallest mountain in Spain, on Tenerife.
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Latitude:28.63102
Longitude:-17.7225
GPS location Date/Time:11/13/2010 14:01:09 GMT

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Was the Santa Maria really that tiny?

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Our last morning in La Palma

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An Island Tour

Almost the whole of yesterday was spent driving around the island.
First, we started to drive up to the observatory on the rim of the
caldera. Then we discovered that we were low on gas. I took a look at
the map and figured out that there were no gas stations on the road we
were on. So we had to turn around and go to another town for gas, then
we were able to head up to the observatory. It was not easy to drive up
there, but Dad managed, and eventually we drove right up into the
clouds. Because of the shape of the island, the eastern side is almost
always cloudy. When we suddenly popped out of the top of the cloud, the
sight was incredible. The whole ocean seemed to be made of clouds. We
were so low to the cloud layer that it seemed to have no end. Then we
saw the observatory. It was not how you would imagine, with one huge
circular building with a domed roof. Instead it was a number of these
domes and two big reflector dishes made of dozens of smaller mirrors all
working as one. Nearby was a trail that we walked along until we found a
vantage point of the entire caldera. In all of my life I have never seen
a landscape as jagged and steep as this. We were on top of a thin ridge
that curved around in a circle with a huge canyon leading outwards to
the sea. We drove around the caldera rim for some time, until we got to
the road leading to Los Llanos, the biggest city on the island. There,
we promptly got lost. We were in a maze of streets, with a map that only
showed the bigger roads. We searched for the correct road for the better
part of an hour, before finally heading up into the caldera. I really
don't think that the long and difficult drive was really worth it. It
was extremely narrow and impossible to see around the curves. We were
lucky and didn't meet any cars an the way up or down, but the view
really wasn't worth the effort. Then we drove down to the southern tip
of the island. We got lost a second time trying to see the new volcano
that erupted only forty years ago in 1971. We found our way back to the
coastal roads after another half hour, and saw the huge new banana
plantation on the lava flows from that recent eruption. We saw the
lighthouse on the southernmost point, then finally went back to the boat
after a truly exhausting but exciting day.
--Orion Date

At the southern tip

By the old lighthouse, blackened in the 1971 eruption, and the new.
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Driving across the streambed

Of the world's largest caldera. Past the world's largest boulder.
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Finally, at the elusive lookout point

WAY up a loooonnnng, twisty, narrow, steep road. LP-214, for those tracking on Mapquest.
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At the top -- Roque de Los Muchachos

2426 meters. Nearly 8,000 feet. Which is why La Palma is the steepest island in the world.
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See what we mean?

Just don't look down!
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The most rugged terrain

Ever. Anywhere. In the whole universe.
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What? What do you mean we can't play with the telescopes!

We're named after celestial objects for Jupiter's sake!
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The most rugged caldera to date

On Juno's volcanic island tour.
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And then above and out

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Driving into the clouds

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Something Else to Replace

Two more things to be exact, but these are not at all required for the
boat to function properly. The first is a new kitchen timer. Our current
one has been malfunctioning for some time, with various buttons refusing
to work. At the moment, it only refuses to clear, but that isn't to much
of a problem. The real problem is when it doesn't let us start or stop
it, or not work at all. We've been looking for one, but all we've found
are little cheap mechanical ones. The other object in need of
replacement is our pepper grinder. This one is about to literally fall
apart, so we have been looking into various stores to find a new one. It
needs to be refillable, but most are, and it shouldn't be a problem.
Tomorrow we will be making a tour of the island, most specifically the
huge volcanic caldera in the center.
--Orion Date

Pioneer plants

When we were walking along the volcano, I saw a lava bomb[wiki] that had a tiny green plant growing in it. This may not be very strange to you, but a plant in a large rock is very unusual, don't you think? Anyway, that plant will make a crack, allowing more plants to get in, they break down rocks to make fertile soil (volcanic soil is the most fertile) which will allow even more plants to get in, and then, well, you get the idea.



--By Rigel

Another cloudy afternoon

In Santa Cruz de La Palma.
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Walking another volcano

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And for good measure. . .

A wine tasting at a lava soil bodega. Daddy's first ever.

So are you obliged to buy a bottle at these things?
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La Palma

Not to be confused with Las Palmas, the big port on Grand Canaria. La
Palma is an island in the Canary Islands. We got into Marina la Palma
this morning around 10:00 A.M., refueled, and moved to the slip that we
were assigned. It is a very nice marina. Apparently it's almost brand
new. The bathrooms are spotless, as are the showers, and the only bad
thing is the surge. According to Dad, when the wind goes into the east,
the swell gets into the harbor, causing a slight surge in the marina.
It's nothing serious, but it does make it a bit uncomfortable. We'll be
going into town later today, and hopefully we'll find a good supermarket
close by.
--Orion Date

La Palma

--Orion Date

Marinas

 For the last few months, we've hopping from marina to marina. It's a lot more comfortable than in a harbor. Lots less to worry about, too. No worries about dragging. I sleep better in marinas. We also get electricity. And water. And (sometimes) WiFi. That's how I'm uploading this post.




--By Rigel



  

Nearing La Palma

A green island, for a change.
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On watch

Underway to La Palma.
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The Beach

Going to the beach here means more than one would think. For the beach is a mile and a half away, and it takes thirty minutes to get there. We stay there for about an two hours, then take another half-hour trip back to the boat. This is walking, so don't get anything about driving in your head. If we had a car, it would take about ten minutes.




--By Rigel

A Volcanic Restaurant

A Volcanic Restaurant

When we went on our self-driven tour of the island yesterday, we had a rather unusual lunch. The meal itself was not that unusual, but the way it was cooked was. We ate barbequed chicken with French fries, and the barbeque was a volcano. You could even go in and see it, a big, round hole in the ground with a metal latticework over it. It was a great lunch, and the show going on outside of the window was pretty cool too. Every so often, a guy would come and pour some water into these small tubes emerging from the ground. He would approach the hole with a bucket, pour it in, and then run away. The hole would then gurgle for a few seconds, followed by a sudden blast of water that shot up 20 feet into the air. It was obvious that these tubes led to the volcano. It was a really cool place to eat, and the geysers were interesting too.
--Orion Date
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Awesome beach

Punta Papagayo. Glad we made the hike! Right? Right. . .?
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The beach is just over this next ridge. Two more minutes. Really.

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Hiss... Gurgle... Whoosh!

...Which is what happens every few minutes at the volcano here. This guy comes with a big bucket of water, and pours a little bit of it into a hole in the ground. Some steam comes out.

In the home of Cesar Manrique

The architect of much of Lanzarote.
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Looking across to La Graciosa

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And now ...

Some surfing.
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